How To Stitch Salwar Kameez Biography
First start by stitching the legs to the waist band from the back from a. i.e. Start stitching the joint of 5 to 6 line and a and stitch for 1” distance. Then fold the cloth to form a single pleat of 1” and stitch. Continue stitching till you reach b (or b’). Now stop here and start stitching again from a till you reach b’(or b). Now with the remaining cloth on the legs, take even pleats and stitch it to the waist band. Make sure that the joint in the centre of the waistband coincides with the joint at the 5 to 6 line in front. Once the pleats are done, finish the salwar by overlocking the extra cloth on the reverse to prevent thread from coming out. Insert the draw string through the opening and your salwar is now ready.
a Measure the length from the top of the shoulder to the desired length plus 3 inches for seam allowance and hem. Measure around the bust line or chest and add 2 inches for fullness and seam allowances. Measure the waist and hip widths plus 2 inches. Measure the shoulder-to-shoulder width across the back. Measure the desired sleeve width plus 1 1/2 inches for seam allowance. Measure the sleeve length from the top of the shoulder to the desired sleeve hem plus 2 inches.
b Make a pattern for a T-tunic kameez with the pattern paper. Measure vertically down the top left corner of the paper to the shoulder-to-bottom length, and label it "A." Draw a horizontal line from "A" that is one quarter as long as the hip or waist measurement (whichever is greater) plus seam and fullness allowances and label it "Line 1." Measure horizontally across the top of the paper from the top left corner to a length half as long as the combination of the sleeve length plus hem and the shoulder width, and label it "B." Draw a vertical line from "B" that is as long as the sleeve width plus seam allowance and label it "Line B." Draw a horizontal line from the end of line B straight to the left edge of the page and label it "Line C." Draw a vertical line straight up to the top of the page and label it "Line D." Label the intersection of the two lines "Underarm."
c Erase the lines from the Underarm intersection to the top and from the Underarm to the left edge. A slight inward curve of line D at the waistline area will give a more fitted look and will flatter feminine waists. A curve from line C to line D instead of the angular intersection will give the Underarm area a looser fit. Measure the wearer's head circumference and draw a curve or a "V" at the top left corner for the neck opening that will accommodate the wearer's head. Cut out the pattern along the lines.
d Purchase 60-inch wide fabric in a color or print that matches or coordinates with the fabric for the salwar. Purchase enough fabric to fit the measurement of the length of the tunic plus the seam and fullness allowances.
e Fold the fabric in half. Pin the pattern to the fabric. Be sure that any border print of the fabric is in the desired places. Cut out the fabric, forming the front of the garment. Pin the pattern to the fold again being careful to line up any border prints to match the front panel. Cut out the pattern except for the neck opening, where you should cut a shallow curve. This is the back of the garment.
f Pin the shoulder seams of the front and back together, with the fabric inside out. Stitch the shoulder seams. Pin and stitch the side seams starting at the sleeve ends and stitching through the Underarm down to the bottom hem. Hem the sleeves and the bottom edge. Turn the neck opening under and hem it. Finish the neck, sleeve ends and bottom with a strip of embroidered tape or other decorative trim.